In 1939, the launch of Zezan by Tuvache marked a significant moment in perfume history, coinciding with a period of artistic and cultural exploration, particularly with an African connection. During this time, Africa was becoming increasingly intertwined with European art and culture, partly due to colonial influences and burgeoning interest in exoticism. This period saw an emergence of African motifs in art, sculpture, and even fashion, reflecting a fascination with the continent's rich cultural heritage.
The word "Zezan," as Madame de Tuvache chose it for her perfume, carries a mysterious allure. While its exact origin is not explicitly defined, it resonates with the sounds and rhythms that Madame de Tuvache found appealing, especially the distinctive "Z" sounds. Interestingly, in Albanian, "zezan" means "black," which adds an intriguing layer considering the design of the perfume's packaging featuring an African motif. Whether this linguistic connection influenced Madame de Tuvache's choice remains unclear, but it adds depth to the perfume's narrative.
"Zezan" is a fitting name for a perfume designed to evoke exoticism and allure. It conjures images of mystery, sensuality, and the unknown, appealing to those fascinated by distant lands and cultures. The perfume's packaging further enhances this allure, with its one ounce bottle set in an African wood stand, adorned with a gold ceramic replica of a primitive princess's head. The wooden crate, sealed with wax, adds a sense of exclusivity and authenticity, reflecting the painstaking craftsmanship and exotic materials that went into its creation.
Those attracted to "Zezan" would likely be drawn to its exoticism and the promise of a sensory journey to distant lands. The perfume's name alone suggests adventure and intrigue, appealing to individuals seeking to escape the mundane and embrace the exotic. Its scent, compounded from oils sourced globally and aged to perfection, would evoke feelings of romance, mystery, and perhaps a hint of nostalgia for a time when exploration and discovery were in vogue.
The word "Zezan" itself evokes images of dusky sunsets over savannas, the rustle of exotic spices carried on warm breezes, and the enchanting rhythms of distant drums. It paints a picture of a world both ancient and vibrant, where every scent tells a story of far-off lands and untold adventures. For those who encountered "Zezan," it was not just a perfume but a passport to a realm of dreams and fantasies, encapsulated in a single ounce of fragrant liquid hidden within a golden-crowned African sculpture.
Dunkirk Evening Observer, 15 Jun 1945:
"Bernadine de Tuvache, or Mrs. Howard Angus to her friends, sat in the scented suite today and discussed the simplicity of getting OPA approval for a $75 an ounce (plus tax) ceiling price for perfume.
"It was no trouble at all," she said. "I simply submitted the cost sheets on the rare oils I used - and got their okay on the price."
The perfume was named 'Zezan', Madame de Tuvache likes the sound of Z's. The OPA had nothing to do with this. It was put on the market last week, and doing very nicely, she said.
According to Madame de Tuvache the perfume was compounded from oils imported from all over the world in a secret formula which took years of background and a year and a half of experimentation to work out. It was then aged for another year and presented to the public in one ounce bottles. The bottles are shrouded in gold-burnished sculpted African heads "for a romantic touch."
It was not, however, the most expensive perfume in the world. An earlier Tuvache model, "Jasmin of Egypt", topped it. Brought out in 1941, "Jasmin sells for $100 an ounce (plus tax)."
Madame de Tuvache, who formerly wrote plays, said that she became interested early in life in the history of perfume, and began collecting rare perfumes and rare perfume bottles. It became her business when friends asked that she compound perfumes for them, she said. "To me, perfume has existed largely because perfume makes women desirable to men," she said. "Perfume has an emotional quality - as powerful as music. It also held religious significance."
"It is an art with me. I am happy that people appreciate my art enough to want my perfume."
During the Second World War, the Office of Price Administration (OPA) played a crucial role in regulating prices and ensuring fair distribution of goods in the United States. Established in 1941, the OPA's primary objective was to stabilize prices and prevent inflation during wartime by setting price ceilings on various consumer goods, including luxury items like perfume.
Bernadine de Tuvache navigated the complexities of wartime regulations with relative ease when it came to her perfume, Zezan. Priced at $75 an ounce (plus tax), Zezan was positioned at the upper echelons of luxury perfumes available at the time. Mrs. de Tuvache obtained OPA approval for this price ceiling by submitting detailed cost sheets that justified the use of rare oils imported from around the world in its formulation.
The name "Zezan" itself reflected Madame de Tuvache's fondness for the sound of Z's, contributing to its exotic and mysterious allure. Despite the wartime constraints and regulations imposed by the OPA, Zezan's introduction to the market was met with success. Madame de Tuvache highlighted the extensive effort behind its creation, involving years of background research, a year and a half of experimentation, and an additional year of aging before its public debut.
The packaging of Zezan added to its appeal, with each one-ounce bottle adorned in a distinctive manner. Wrapped in gold-burnished sculpted African heads, the bottles exuded a romantic and exotic charm, appealing to those seeking luxury and escapism during uncertain times. Madame de Tuvache's ability to navigate wartime regulations and position Zezan as a premium fragrance underscored her entrepreneurial spirit and the enduring allure of exotic, meticulously crafted perfumes during challenging historical periods.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral fragrance and described as having "a light spice tinge."
- Top notes: bergamot, neroli, ginger, cardamom, pepper
- Middle notes: lily, carnation, cinnamon, rose, jasmine
- Base notes: vanilla, ambergris, oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, tonka bean, musk
Scent Story:
Star Tribune, 1947:
"Perfume, she says, is actually worth what it costs, in cold blooded terms of what goes into it. One of her scents, "Zezan", was invented during the war, and OPA officials, noting the costs of the ingredients set the price at $75 an ounce. The extraordinary concentration of her perfumes, as well as the distinctive fragrances, make up their high cost, Miss de Tuvache says."
Also in 1946, Tuvache's perfumes were sold in dram form (1/8 ounce), adjusted inflation calculated prices for 2024 are shown in parenthesis.
- Sumatra sold for $7.00 a dram ($120.80),
- Moroccan Rose for $3.50 ($60.40)
- Gardenia for $2.00 ($34.51)
- Violet for $2.00 ($34.51)
- Tuvara for $2.00 ($34.51)
- Arabia for $2.00 ($34.51)
Bottles:
The presentation of Zezan by Tuvache in 1939 was nothing short of extravagant and evocative of its exotic origins. Housed in a one-ounce bottle, each perfume was nestled within an African wood stand, adding an immediate tactile and visual connection to its theme. The bottle itself was adorned with a striking feature: a gold ceramic replica of the head of a primitive princess. This choice of design not only highlighted the perfume's exotic allure but also spoke to the artistry and craftsmanship involved in its creation.
To further enhance its mystique, Zezan was meticulously packaged. Each bottle was carefully placed in a wooden crate, which was then tied and sealed with wax. This elaborate packaging not only protected the precious contents but also added an air of exclusivity and luxury. The use of wax seals harkened back to traditional methods of preserving and securing valuable items, reinforcing the idea that Zezan was not just a perfume but a precious artifact from a distant, romanticized land.
The description of Zezan in The New Yorker from 1945 emphasizes its allure and luxury. Referred to as "exotic," the perfume was likened to being hidden away in a "gold-painted porcelain idol," elevating its status to that of a treasured artifact rather than just a fragrance. The mention of its price, at $90 an ounce during that time, underscored its exclusivity and positioned it firmly within the realm of high-end luxury perfumes, accessible only to those with discerning tastes and means. $90 in 1945 corresponds to $1,587.99 in 2024, this would have been extremely expensive during wartime.
In essence, Zezan by Tuvache was not merely a perfume; it was an experience crafted through meticulous design, luxurious materials, and a narrative that transported its users to a realm of exoticism and opulence. Its bottle and presentation box were not just containers but artifacts that embodied the spirit of adventure and romance, making Zezan a coveted treasure for perfume aficionados of its time.
The New Yorker, 1945:
"Tuvache. Quel parfum, et quel prix! The newest is the exotic Zezan, which is hidden away in a gold-painted porcelain idol, and costs $90 an ounce. Bath oils and toilet waters that are a fair distance out of this world — Moroccan Rose, Algiers (exotic carnation), and a Jungle Gardenia."
Fate of the Fragrance:
The perfume Zezan by Tuvache, while eventually discontinued, has left a somewhat ambiguous trail in terms of its exact discontinuation date. Despite this, records indicate that it was still available for purchase as late as 1958, showcasing its enduring popularity and the lasting impression it made in the world of perfumery. This longevity suggests that Zezan maintained a steady demand well beyond its initial introduction, likely due to its exotic allure and distinctive packaging. Its eventual disappearance from the market adds to its mystique, leaving enthusiasts and collectors alike to treasure the memories and impressions it evoked during its time in production.
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