Sumatra by Tuvache c1940

The year 1940 was a tumultuous time globally, as it marked the early stages of World War II. The world was steeped in conflict, uncertainty, and rapid change. Despite the war, or perhaps because of it, there was a strong desire for escapism and the allure of exotic locales. In the United States, where Tuvache perfumes were compounded and packaged, the market for luxury goods, including perfumes, remained resilient among those who could afford them. This period saw a fascination with far-off lands and cultures, partly due to the restricted travel caused by the war, which intensified the allure of the exotic and the unknown.

Sumatra, an Indonesian island known for its dense jungles, rich biodiversity, and exotic flora, had a strong connection to the world of perfumes. The island was, and still is, renowned for its aromatic plants and flowers, many of which are used in the creation of perfumes. Essential oils extracted from Sumatra’s native flora, such as patchouli and vetiver, are prized in perfumery for their unique, earthy, and complex scents. These ingredients contribute to the deep, musky, and rich profiles that are often sought after in fine fragrances.

Bernadine de Tuvache, the visionary behind Tuvache perfumes, likely chose the name "Sumatra" to evoke a sense of exoticism, adventure, and mystery. The name itself conjures images of lush, untamed jungles teeming with vibrant flowers and rare plants. It suggests a journey into the heart of nature’s most opulent and unspoiled environments. By naming the perfume "Sumatra," Tuvache could harness these connotations to appeal to consumers' desires for luxury, escapism, and the allure of the unknown.

"Sumatra" would be an appropriate name for a perfume because it promises an olfactory journey to a distant, exotic place. The name alone suggests a fragrance composed of rare and precious ingredients sourced from the heart of an untouched paradise. It conveys a sense of authenticity and richness that would attract consumers looking for something unique and sophisticated. Furthermore, during the 1940s, the idea of owning a perfume made from ingredients sourced from such a far-off and mysterious place would have been incredibly appealing, offering a sensory escape from the harsh realities of the time.

Those who related to a perfume called "Sumatra" were likely individuals with an appreciation for luxury and exclusivity, as well as an interest in the exotic and adventurous. They would have responded to the perfume with a sense of curiosity and desire, eager to experience the scent of a place so far removed from their everyday lives. The perfume would evoke a romanticized vision of Sumatra, filled with the richness of its natural beauty and the allure of its untamed wilderness.

The word "Sumatra" evokes images of verdant rainforests, towering trees, and a rich tapestry of colorful, fragrant flowers. It brings to mind the sensory experience of exploring a tropical jungle, where the air is thick with the scent of blooming flora and the sounds of wildlife. Feelings of adventure, exploration, and a deep connection to nature are inherent in the name. It suggests a perfume that is not only luxurious but also wild and untamed, offering a profound and immersive sensory experience that transports the wearer to the heart of an exotic paradise.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a very rich, spicy green oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: green accord, bergamot, cinnamon and clove 
• Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, jasmine, galbanum, gardenia, ylang ylang and carnation
• Base notes: labdanum, tonka bean, vetiver, oakmoss, ambergris, vanilla, patchouli, styrax, benzoin, vanilla and sandalwood

The New Yorker, 1942:

"De Tuvache: Her Jungle Gardenia is one of the sharpest of its kind, with lots of tuberose and let's-go. Lovely odors in bath oils and skin scents, with names that are as timely as they are tropical — Algiers, Moroccan Rose, and Sumatra."

The New Yorker, 1943:

"Arabia is a spicy, carnation type; Sumatra is heavy."

Modern Packaging, 1944:

"Bernadine de Tuvache, creator of what she claims has been called "the most special and most expensive perfumes in the world," packages her exotic Sumatra in a crystal bottle the face of which is covered with a soft, red suede with the name."

Glass Packer, 1946:

"Sumatra" an oriental perfume by Tuvache, comes in a flacon topped with a crystal stopper. The red suede label has individuality and the box goes "native," affecting a woven mat design with a brown suede thong for a fastening."

Harper's Bazaar, 1955:

"There's a clear whiff of carnation in Tuvache's "Sumatra" perfume, along with other more exotic essences. 1 ounce, $20."

Vogue, 1969:

"This newest and most catching of Tuvache's perfumes is marvelously heady, with spicy high notes and sexy low notes. The Sumatra spell also exerts itself in skin perfume, spray bath oil, bath powder, body lotion, and soap."

Harper's Bazaar, 1969:

"A 1969 scent like new Sumatra from Tuvache. Romantic but not coy. Elegant. Electric. Newly done up in a roll-on applicator ... Sumatra Skin Perfume Aromizer by Tuvache, 1 oz. $4. Sumatra Perfume, 1 oz. $25. Full range of bath products, too."

Mademoiselle, 1969:

"That's what we thought, anyway, and were not disappointed when we sniffed Tuvache's new Sumatra Perfume. Velvet nights, hypertrophic flowers. It's all there. (No orangutans, though. Just as well.) Sumatra arrives in many guises."

Scent Story:

In the opulent perfume department of Bergdorf Goodman, a buzz of excitement fills the air. The space is lavishly decorated with fresh gardenias, ylang-ylang, and carnations, their heady aromas mingling in the air to create an intoxicating floral symphony. The rich scent of these blooms transports the guests to a lush, tropical paradise, setting the perfect stage for the grand unveiling of Madame Bernadine Tuvache's latest masterpiece, "Sumatra."

As I step into the room, my senses are immediately enveloped by the fragrance of the flowers. The sweet, creamy scent of gardenias blends with the exotic, slightly fruity aroma of ylang-ylang, while the spicy, clove-like fragrance of carnations adds a tantalizing complexity. The air is thick with anticipation and the chatter of elegantly dressed guests, who move through the space with flutes of champagne in hand, their laughter and conversation blending into a harmonious murmur.

Madame Bernadine Tuvache stands at the center of the room, a picture of grace and sophistication. She is surrounded by a small group of attentive guests, each one eager to hear her speak. Her eyes sparkle with excitement as she begins to address the crowd, her voice carrying a melodic, almost hypnotic quality.

"Ladies and gentlemen," she begins, "it is my great pleasure to introduce to you 'Sumatra,' a fragrance crafted to complement your most exotic evening attire. Apply a few drops to your body when you wish to be your most sophisticated, and let its rich, spicy, and green notes transport you to a world of unparalleled luxury."

As she speaks, the top notes of Sumatra—green accord, bergamot, cinnamon, and clove—begin to permeate the room. The initial burst of freshness from the green accord and bergamot is invigorating, awakening the senses with a crisp, citrusy brightness. This is quickly followed by the warm, spicy embrace of cinnamon and clove, which adds depth and a hint of mystery to the fragrance.

Madame Tuvache continues, "Each ingredient in Sumatra has been carefully selected and sourced from around the world. The raw materials are among the most costly and rare, reflecting the exotic inspiration behind this perfume."

She pauses, allowing the guests to take in the middle notes—orange blossom, rose, jasmine, galbanum, gardenia, ylang-ylang, and carnation. The floral heart of Sumatra is revealed in all its glory, a rich bouquet that is both lush and complex. The sweet, honeyed scent of orange blossom mingles with the opulent aroma of rose and the heady, intoxicating jasmine. Galbanum adds a green, slightly bitter edge, grounding the florals with its earthy tone. The gardenia, ylang-ylang, and carnation round out the heart of the fragrance, their combined aromas creating a rich, textured floral experience that is both exotic and familiar.

I take a sip of champagne, the crisp, effervescent liquid dancing on my tongue, providing a delightful contrast to the rich scents enveloping me. The bubbles tickle my palate, adding a layer of sensory pleasure to the evening.

Madame Tuvache’s eyes shine as she reveals the final layer of the fragrance, the base notes: labdanum, tonka bean, vetiver, oakmoss, ambergris, vanilla, patchouli, styrax, benzoin, and sandalwood. "These notes provide the foundation of Sumatra, giving it its rich, long-lasting character," she explains.

The room fills with the deep, resinous scent of labdanum, mingling with the creamy, sweet aroma of tonka bean and vanilla. Vetiver and oakmoss add a dry, earthy quality, grounding the fragrance in nature. The smoky, balsamic notes of ambergris and benzoin blend with the woody, aromatic patchouli and the warm, smooth sandalwood, creating a base that is both rich and sensual.

As I move through the room, I can feel the luxurious fabrics of the guests' attire brush against my skin—silk, satin, and velvet—each texture adding to the sensory tapestry of the evening. The soft strains of a string quartet playing in the background add an auditory layer of elegance and sophistication, completing the experience.

Madame Tuvache's eyes meet mine, and she smiles, sensing my appreciation for the exquisite creation she has unveiled. "Sumatra," she says softly, "is not just a fragrance; it is an invitation to explore the lush, tropical Indonesian isles, to experience their rare herbs and spices, and to immerse oneself in their natural beauty."

As I inhale the rich, spicy, and green oriental fragrance of Sumatra once more, I am transported to a world of exotic elegance and timeless sophistication, feeling every bit as refined and adventurous as the perfume itself.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

"Sumatra" by Tuvache, though eventually discontinued at an unknown date, maintained its allure well into the 1980s. Despite its discontinuation, the fragrance was still available for sale in 1981, indicating its enduring popularity and the continued demand for its rich, spicy, and green oriental scent. This persistence in the market highlights the perfume's lasting appeal and the devotion of its fans, who cherished its exotic and sophisticated essence long after its production ceased.