Perfume advice for Junoesque Girls by Madame de Tuvache

Culled from the Troy Times Record, Saturday, August, 9, 1947:


Alicia Hart’s Timely Beauty Hints

"Junoesque girls who would like to under-accent their magnificent proportions should enlist the aid of perfume to that end.  Perfumer Bernadine de Tuvache, who creates rare scents and speaks with authority on the impressions they can create, claims that delicate, airy fragrances will help the stout woman put over the illusion of less bulk.
Says our perfumer: “The tendency of the overweight women is to use heavy perfumes. When these fragrances are exploded by body heat, the effect is too much woman and too much perfume.” The effect of a light fragrance when wafted about by the large woman, says our expert, is to make her seen daintier and more feminine. 

To achieve what Madame de Tuvache calls “ the fourth dimension of lightness,” Junoesque gals are advised to use their some hither scents so as to created an enveloping aura/ Suggested areas for application are shoulder pads, handkerchiefs,  gloves, the inside of a handbag and the hand fan that goes into action in hot weather."

Lily of the Valley by Tuvache c1944

In 1944, the launch of "Lily of the Valley" by Tuvaché occurred amidst a significant period of history. World War II was still raging in Europe, and the perfume industry, like many others, faced challenges due to wartime restrictions and changes in production. Despite these difficulties, perfumes continued to serve as a source of comfort and luxury for those who could access them, offering a fleeting escape from the realities of war.

Lily of the Valley holds a special place in the world of perfumery due to its delicate and distinctive fragrance. Known for its sweet, floral scent with hints of green freshness, Lily of the Valley has been cherished for centuries. Its connection to perfumes stems from its natural essence, which is often extracted through methods that preserve its purity and complexity. This flower has been a favorite in perfumery for its ability to evoke feelings of freshness, purity, and springtime renewal.

Choosing the name "Lily of the Valley" for a perfume carries several implications. Bernadine de Tuvache likely selected this name to capture the essence of the flower itself—a fragrant symbol of spring and new beginnings. The name suggests a desire to encapsulate the floral purity and natural allure associated with Lily of the Valley, appealing to those who seek a fragrance that embodies freshness and elegance.

For perfume enthusiasts of the time, a fragrance named "Lily of the Valley" would have been particularly appealing. It would resonate with those who appreciated single-flower scents, valuing the clarity and beauty of a specific floral note. The response to such a perfume would likely have been positive, as it would evoke images of lush greenery, blooming gardens, and the delicate, bell-shaped flowers of Lily of the Valley.

Lilac by Tuvache c1940

In 1940, the launch of "Lilac" by Tuvaché occurred during a tumultuous period marked by World War II. This era was characterized by a blend of hardship and resilience, where perfumes often served as a form of escapism and comfort amidst uncertainty. The choice of lilac as a fragrance theme during this time holds significant symbolism. Lilacs are known for their delicate, sweet floral scent, often associated with springtime and renewal. In perfumery, lilac is prized for its fresh, powdery, and slightly spicy aroma, making it a popular choice for single-flower scents.

Bernadine de Tuvaché likely chose the name "Lilac" for its evocative power and its resonance with the spirit of the times. The word "Lilac" conjures images of lush gardens in bloom, with clusters of purple or white flowers exuding a gentle fragrance that is both calming and uplifting. During the uncertainties of wartime, a perfume named "Lilac" would offer wearers a sensory escape to a more peaceful and natural setting, providing solace and a connection to beauty amidst adversity.

"Lilac" would have been particularly appealing to individuals seeking solace in nature's tranquility during a time of global conflict. Those who gravitated towards this perfume would likely have responded to its comforting, nostalgic scent with a sense of longing for simpler, happier times. The fragrance would evoke images of spring gardens, filled with blooming lilac bushes swaying gently in the breeze, and feelings of hope and renewal that springtime brings.

Moroccan Rose by Tuvache c1940

In 1940, the launch of "Moroccan Rose" by Tuvaché coincided with a period of significant cultural fascination with exoticism and oriental influences in perfumery. This era was marked by a romanticized view of distant lands, spurred on by increased travel, literature, and art depicting faraway places. Morocco, in particular, held allure with its rich history of trade, spices, and vibrant landscapes.

The connection of roses to perfumes dates back centuries, as roses have been prized for their delicate fragrance and symbolism of love and beauty. Moroccan roses, specifically, are renowned for their deep, rich scent, often described as spicy and slightly fruity due to the region's unique climate and soil conditions. This distinctiveness made Moroccan rose oil a coveted ingredient in perfumery, adding an exotic allure to fragrances.

Bernadine de Tuvache likely chose the name "Moroccan Rose" for its evocative power. The name conjures images of lush gardens, desert landscapes, and the vibrant markets of Morocco. It promises a sensory journey through the aromatic essence of Moroccan roses, capturing the essence of romance and adventure.

"Moroccan Rose" would be a fitting name for a perfume because it taps into the desire for escapism and sensory exploration that was prevalent during the 1940s. It appeals to individuals seeking sophistication, elegance, and a touch of the exotic in their fragrance choices. The name suggests a perfume that is both luxurious and culturally rich, appealing to those who appreciate craftsmanship and the art of perfumery.

Violet by Tuvache c1939

In 1939, the launch of "Violet" by Tuvaché occurred during a period marked by the approaching turmoil of World War II. This era was characterized by a blend of optimism and apprehension, where perfumes often provided a nostalgic escape into realms of beauty and tranquility. The choice of violet as a fragrance theme during this time was significant. Violets have long been associated with delicate beauty, modesty, and simplicity. They evoke a sense of refinement and innocence, often symbolizing loyalty and faithfulness.

Bernadine de Tuvache likely chose the name "Violet" for its classic appeal and the universal charm associated with the flower itself. Violets have a rich history in perfumery, dating back centuries, where their sweet, powdery scent has been cherished for its calming and comforting qualities. In the context of Tuvaché's repertoire of single-flower scents like Moroccan Rose, Lily of the Valley, and Lilac, Violet would have fit seamlessly, offering a gentle, floral option amidst potentially turbulent times.

"Violet" would have been an appropriate name for a perfume not only due to its elegant connotations but also because of its timeless appeal. During the late 1930s, women of various backgrounds and ages would have been drawn to such a fragrance. It would resonate with those who appreciated classic femininity and sought solace in a scent that reminded them of gentler, more peaceful times. The perfume would likely have been received with nostalgia and a sense of comfort, offering wearers a subtle yet profound connection to nature's beauty amidst the uncertainties of the era.

Zezan by Tuvache c1939

In 1939, the launch of Zezan by Tuvache marked a significant moment in perfume history, coinciding with a period of artistic and cultural exploration, particularly with an African connection. During this time, Africa was becoming increasingly intertwined with European art and culture, partly due to colonial influences and burgeoning interest in exoticism. This period saw an emergence of African motifs in art, sculpture, and even fashion, reflecting a fascination with the continent's rich cultural heritage.

The word "Zezan," as Madame de Tuvache chose it for her perfume, carries a mysterious allure. While its exact origin is not explicitly defined, it resonates with the sounds and rhythms that Madame de Tuvache found appealing, especially the distinctive "Z" sounds. Interestingly, in Albanian, "zezan" means "black," which adds an intriguing layer considering the design of the perfume's packaging featuring an African motif. Whether this linguistic connection influenced Madame de Tuvache's choice remains unclear, but it adds depth to the perfume's narrative.

"Zezan" is a fitting name for a perfume designed to evoke exoticism and allure. It conjures images of mystery, sensuality, and the unknown, appealing to those fascinated by distant lands and cultures. The perfume's packaging further enhances this allure, with its one ounce bottle set in an African wood stand, adorned with a gold ceramic replica of a primitive princess's head. The wooden crate, sealed with wax, adds a sense of exclusivity and authenticity, reflecting the painstaking craftsmanship and exotic materials that went into its creation.

Highlander by Tuvache c1938

In 1938, when Highlander by Tuvache was launched, Europe was on the cusp of World War II, a period marked by heightened tensions and looming uncertainty. Amidst this backdrop, fashion and fragrance trends often reflected a blend of resilience, tradition, and a longing for the rugged beauty of nature. Men's fragrances of the time sought to embody qualities of strength, sophistication, and a connection to heritage.

A "Highlander" traditionally refers to someone from the Scottish Highlands, a region famed for its breathtaking landscapes, including heather-covered moors and misty mountains. Highlanders are historically associated with traits like courage, independence, and a deep affinity for their land and traditions.

Bernadine de Tuvache likely chose the name "Highlander" for its evocative power. Firstly, it conjures images of Scottish heritage, particularly the rugged elegance of tweed-clad gentlemen against the backdrop of rolling hills and expansive moors. Tweed, a durable woolen fabric, was often worn by Highlanders and symbolizes both practicality and timeless style.

"Highlander" is an apt name for a men's fragrance because it resonates with the rugged yet refined persona associated with Highlanders. It suggests a man who appreciates the outdoors, values tradition, and exudes a sense of adventure and sophistication. The fragrance would likely appeal to those who identify with classic values of strength and honor, coupled with an appreciation for natural beauty and craftsmanship.

Cossack by Tuvache c1938

In 1938, the world was on the brink of significant political turmoil, with Europe nervously anticipating the outbreak of World War II. It was a time of both uncertainty and bravado, where masculinity often took center stage amidst the looming specter of conflict. It was against this backdrop that Bernadine de Tuvache launched "Cossack," a fragrance named after the renowned warriors of Eastern Europe known as Cossacks.

A Cossack, historically, was a member of various autonomous communities of Eastern Slavs who inhabited the steppes of Eastern Europe and Siberia. These communities were known for their fierce independence, strong martial traditions, and rugged individualism. The term "Cossack" itself evokes images of fearless horsemen, skilled in combat and adept at surviving in harsh environments. They were often seen as symbols of strength, valor, and freedom.

Bernadine de Tuvache likely chose the name "Cossack" for its association with these qualities. In the context of a men's fragrance, "Cossack" would appeal to men who valued courage, adventure, and a sense of daring. The fragrance would embody characteristics such as strength, resilience, and a bold spirit, resonating with individuals who saw themselves as independent and capable.

Arabia by Tuvache c1939

The perfume "Arabia" by Tuvache was launched in 1939, a period marked by significant global tensions and impending conflict as World War II loomed on the horizon. Despite the troubling political landscape, the 1930s were also a time of cultural exploration and fascination with the exotic and the unknown. During this era, there was a romanticized view of distant lands and cultures, which were often depicted as mysterious and enchanting in literature, film, and art. This fascination extended to perfumes, which were seen as a means of capturing and experiencing the essence of these far-off places.

Arabia has a long and storied connection with perfumes. The region, encompassing modern-day Saudi Arabia, the Arabian Peninsula, and parts of the Middle East, has been associated with the production and trade of fragrant materials for millennia. Frankincense and myrrh, two of the most prized resins, have been harvested in Arabia since ancient times. These aromatic substances were essential in religious ceremonies, medicine, and personal adornment, contributing to Arabia's reputation as a land of exquisite scents. Additionally, the region was a crucial hub on the Incense Route, facilitating the exchange of spices, herbs, and perfumes between the East and the West.

Bernadine de Tuvache likely chose the name "Arabia" to evoke the rich olfactory heritage and the exotic allure associated with the region. The name "Arabia" conjures images of vast deserts, bustling bazaars filled with spices and incense, and the luxurious courts of ancient empires. By naming the perfume "Arabia," Tuvache aimed to capture the mystique and opulence that the region symbolized, promising consumers a sensory journey to a place of legendary beauty and fragrance.

Sumatra by Tuvache c1940

The year 1940 was a tumultuous time globally, as it marked the early stages of World War II. The world was steeped in conflict, uncertainty, and rapid change. Despite the war, or perhaps because of it, there was a strong desire for escapism and the allure of exotic locales. In the United States, where Tuvache perfumes were compounded and packaged, the market for luxury goods, including perfumes, remained resilient among those who could afford them. This period saw a fascination with far-off lands and cultures, partly due to the restricted travel caused by the war, which intensified the allure of the exotic and the unknown.

Sumatra, an Indonesian island known for its dense jungles, rich biodiversity, and exotic flora, had a strong connection to the world of perfumes. The island was, and still is, renowned for its aromatic plants and flowers, many of which are used in the creation of perfumes. Essential oils extracted from Sumatra’s native flora, such as patchouli and vetiver, are prized in perfumery for their unique, earthy, and complex scents. These ingredients contribute to the deep, musky, and rich profiles that are often sought after in fine fragrances.

Bernadine de Tuvache, the visionary behind Tuvache perfumes, likely chose the name "Sumatra" to evoke a sense of exoticism, adventure, and mystery. The name itself conjures images of lush, untamed jungles teeming with vibrant flowers and rare plants. It suggests a journey into the heart of nature’s most opulent and unspoiled environments. By naming the perfume "Sumatra," Tuvache could harness these connotations to appeal to consumers' desires for luxury, escapism, and the allure of the unknown.

PERFUME POCKETS IN NEW FALL COATS!

From a August 26,1945 article in the Milwaukee Sentinel by Dorothy Parnell:

PERFUME POCKETS IN NEW FALL COATS!

"The perfume pocket is the latest fashion and beauty trick in New York. It is the joint inspiration of two top glamour creators, Esther Dorothy, the fur designer and Bernadine de Tuvache, perfumer."

"Each coat in Esther Dorothy's new winter collection has in its lining a miniature pocket, only about an inch in width and depth, placed high at the left side just under the shoulder pad. Out of it peeps the corner of what looks like a doll's chiffon handkerchief, but is in reality a tiny square of maline tied around a piece of cotton holding a drop or two of perfume. these little perfume amulets are to be worn instead of putting perfume on your furs and have the practical advantage of giving you a chance to change your perfume at will , and most important preventing the actual injury to precious pelts when it comes repeated burning by the alcohol in perfume."

Algiers by Tuvache c1940

In 1940, the world was teetering on the brink of chaos as World War II enveloped Europe. Despite the turmoil, there was an undeniable allure in the promise of exotic locales and the escapism they provided. It was against this backdrop that Bernadine de Tuvache launched her fragrance "Algiers," a name that conjured visions of far-off lands and the mystique of North Africa. Algiers, the capital city of Algeria, had a long-standing connection to perfumes, with its rich history as a center for the cultivation of exotic flowers and the production of fragrant oils. The city's vibrant culture and its association with the lush, aromatic landscapes of the Maghreb made it an ideal muse for a perfume intended to evoke elegance and enchantment.

Madame Tuvache’s choice of the name "Algiers" was both strategic and evocative. During this period, there was a fascination with the exotic and the unknown, and North Africa held a particular mystique. Algiers, with its storied history as a melting pot of cultures and its reputation for producing some of the world's most coveted floral essences, represented a gateway to an enchanting world. The perfume, described as a fruity floral with sharp, citrusy fruits and languid, poetic flowers, mirrored the sensory richness associated with the city. The choice of ingredients—neroli, pepper, lemon, orange, bergamot, narcissus, white hyacinth, cinnamon, tuberose, jasmine, clove, orris, ylang-ylang, rose, carnation, musk, heliotrope, oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver, and ambergris—created a complex, layered scent that captured the essence of Algiers.

Naming the perfume "Algiers" was particularly appropriate because it invoked images of the bustling souks, the intricate architecture, and the lush gardens of the city. The name promised an olfactory journey to a place where the air is thick with the scent of blooming flowers and the warm Mediterranean breeze. It appealed to those yearning for a taste of the exotic, a brief escape from the harsh realities of the time.

Jungle Gardenia by Tuvache c1932

In 1932, the launch of "Jungle Gardenia" by Tuvache occurred during a particularly tumultuous period in global history—the Great Depression. This perfume's debut amidst economic hardship and social upheaval highlights a deliberate attempt to offer a sensory escape and evoke specific emotions and imagery.

The choice of "Jungle Gardenia" as the name for this perfume is significant. Gardenias, with their rich, creamy scent, symbolize elegance, femininity, and luxury. During the Depression, when many faced financial struggles and bleak realities, the allure of a perfume named "Jungle Gardenia" would have been profound. The addition of "Jungle" suggests a wild, exotic element—conjuring images of lush tropical landscapes, adventure, and perhaps a touch of danger. This combination of gardenias and jungle imagery promised wearers an experience far beyond their everyday lives—a chance to indulge in fantasy and escape into a world of glamour and sensuality.

For women of the time, "Jungle Gardenia" represented more than just a fragrance. It embodied aspirations for sophistication and a desire to transcend the hardships of the era. Wearing such a perfume would have allowed them to feel glamorous, confident, and perhaps even transported to a far-off paradise where life was more vibrant and exciting.

The response to "Jungle Gardenia" would likely have been enthusiastic. Its name alone would have conjured up visions of exotic locales and luxurious surroundings, offering a brief respite from the harsh realities of the Depression. The fragrance itself, with its blend of gardenia's floral sweetness and potentially other exotic notes, would have reinforced this escapism and offered a sensory experience that uplifted and transported its wearers.

"Jungle Gardenia" stands out as a unique and evocative name for a perfume, particularly in its historical context. It blends the allure of nature's beauty with the promise of sophistication and adventure, appealing directly to the desires and aspirations of women during a challenging period. The name's interpretation would have varied, but universally, it would have conveyed a sense of luxury, escape, and feminine allure—making it a compelling choice for anyone seeking to add a touch of glamour and fantasy to their life, even during the Great Depression.

As for Fay Wray's rumored association with "Jungle Gardenia" during the filming of "King Kong" in 1933, if true, it would have further elevated the perfume's profile, linking it with Hollywood glamour and reinforcing its image as a scent of allure and escape.